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IN-CABINET LIGHT

In-Cabinet Light, retail $34.99 (http://jenesisproducts.com...)
Manufactured by Jenesis International (http://jenesisproducts.com)
Last updated 08-18-12

The In-Cabinet Light is...what else...an "IN-CABINET LIGHT!!!"

It has an automatic mode where it only comes on when you open the cabinet door -- it turns itself off automatically when you close that door. It also has a manual mode, where you can turn it on & off at will using the glowing switch button when you use it in a cabinet without a door or if you need to use it for emergency lighting.

This faint glow emenating from the switch, called Low Glow, is intended to be used to find the switch button in darkness; with those large C cells, it will not significantly impact overall battery life at all!

The In-Cabinet Light features a high-powered warm white LED and projects a very smooth pool of light; it feeds that LED with four C cells that you furnish yourself.

Size of product w/hand to show scale

SIZE

To use your In-Cabinet Light, feed it four C cells (see directly below), and THEN you can see those cans of Campbells brand tomato soup in family-sized cans.

Using the double-sided tape mat that's furnished (or using the two included screws), affix the metal plate to virtually any smooth surface that could use a light (the inside of a dark cabinet is what it's designed for, but you may of course mount it virtually anywhere else).
Mount it so that it's like either of these two configurations:

Note if you will the "back-to-front" orientation of those two "tits". If you have them in a "side-to-side" orientation, the In-Cabinet Light will be oriented so that its long dimension will go from back-to-front, and in all likelihood, you wouldn't care for that too much -- in fact, you may not be able to shut the cabinet door. So this part is rather important!

Once the mounting plate is installed, simply place the unit over the plate so that the two receptacles (indentations) on the unit itself fit the "tits" on the mounting plate. The unit will then magnetically hold strongly in place (it is reported to stay affixed to the mounting plate even if the cabinet door is slammed!)

If the "Auto/Manual" switch on the back of the unit (located between the two batttery doors) is set to the "Auto" position, the unit will turn on automatically when you open the cabinet door (much like the light in your reefer {commercial talk for a refrigerator}), and neutralise itself (turn itself off) automatically shortly after you close the cabinet door.

If the "Auto/Manual" switch is set to the "Manual" position, the unit will not automatically turn on; rather, you use the gently-glowing pushbutton on the top of the unit (located near the main LED) to turn it on & off.

The In-Cabinet Light has an adjustable angle light source; the light can be swivelled upon its X-axis (horizontally) over a range of ~40° simply by turning the thumbwheel (located between the LED and the manual-mode pushbutton) to the left or right.

To change the batteries in your In-Cabinet Light, remove it from its mounting location (it's easy and requires no tools of any type, thanks to the magnetic mounting system!) and place it face-down on a couch, uphostered chair, or other reasonably soft surface.

Unclip & remove the two battery doors, and place them on the floor near the kitchen sink so that the hungry, hungry cockroaches will think that they're something yummy for their insect tummies, drag them under the sink, find them unpalatable, and simply squat over them and relieve themselves upon them...O WAIT!!! YOU'LL NEED THOSE!!! SO JUST SET THEM ASIDE INSTEAD!!!

Remove the four depleted C cells, and dispose of or recycle them as you see fit.

Install four new C cells (two in each compartment), orienting them so that their flat-ends (-) negatives face the springs for them in each chamber.

Finally, place the two battery doors back on and hang the unit back up where you just recently removed it from.
Aren't you glad you didn't place those battery doors on the kitchen floor with all of those hungry, hungry roaches now?

Speaking of which, you'd better get a can of Raid® or Black Flag™ insecticide (or, "bugicide" if you prefer) and spray those little bastards before they get out of hand!!!

This is an in-cabinet light, not a flashlight meant to be thrashed, trashed, and abused. So I won't try to drown it in the toliet tank, bash it against a steel rod or against the concrete floor of a carport in effort to try and expose the bare Metalrenamon - er - the bare Metalbeezelmon - um that's not it either...the bare Metalflamedramon...er...uh...wait a sec here...THE BARE METAL (guess I've been watching too much Digimon again!

- now I'm just making {vulgar term for feces} up!!!), let my mother's big dog's ghost, her kitties, my sister's kitty cat, or my own kitty cat piddle (uranate) on it, hose it down with my mother's handgun, run over it with a 450lb Quickie Pulse 6 motorised wheelchair, stomp on it, use a medium ball peen hammer in order to smash it open to check it for candiosity, fire it from the cannoñata, drop it down the top of Mt. Erupto (now I guess I've been watching the TV program "Viva Piñata" too much again

- candiosity is usually checked with a laser-type device on a platform with a large readout (located at Piñata Central {aka. "Party Central"}), with a handheld wand that Langston Lickatoad uses, or with a pack-of-cards-sized device that Fergy Fudgehog uses; the cannoñata (also located at Piñata Central) is only used to shoot piñatas to piñata parties away from picturesque Piñata Island, and Mt. Erupto is an active volcano on Piñata Island), send it to the Daystrom Institute for additional analysis, or perform other indecencies on it that a flashlight might have to have performed on it. Therefore, this section of the In-Cabinet Light's web page will seem a bit more bare than this section of the web page on a page about a flashlight.

Photograph of the product's light on the test target at ~12".

Photograph of the product hung from the underside of one of my shelves.
That helicopter on the left is my Radio Control Hopper Fly Helicopter, that thing near the center is my Star Trek Type II Phaser Replica, and that clock to the right is my Rainbow Big-Digit LED Alarm Clock.

Spectrographic analysis of the LED in this product.

Spectrographic analysis of the LED in this product; spectrometer's response narrowed to a band between 440nm and 470nm to pinpoint native emission peak wavelength, which is 452.333nm.

Spectrographic analysis of the LED in this product; spectrometer's response narrowed to a band between 570nm and 600nm to pinpoint phosphor peak peak wavelength, which is 573.937nm.

USB2000 Spectrometer graciously donated by P.L.

TEST NOTES:
Test sample of this product plus four other products was sent by A.G. of Jenesis International on 08-07-12 (or "12 Aug. 2012" or even "Aug. 12, twenty stick-very-twirly-stick" if you prefer) and was received at 11:11am PDT on 08-13-12.

UPDATE: 00-00-00

PROS:
Nice warm white LED renders objects in a very natural, lifelike color
Has a totally automatic, hands-free mode
Light source can be angled to suit your needs
No expen$ive hard-wiring necessary
Magnetic mounting plate makes battery changing easy

CONS:
None that I have yet to discover

Jenesis International

In-cabinet LED light

Cool & warm white LED

2 (1x cool white under switch, 1x high-powered warm white for illumination)

Wide-angle flood

Automatic; manual pushbutton on the top of the product

Plastic

Plastic; LED & white plastic reflector protected by colorless plastic window

4x C cells

Unknown/unable to measure

Splatter-resistant at minimum

¡¡¡HUSOOS CRISTO EN UN SILLÓN DE RUEDAS, NO!!!

Mounting plate, mounting screws, double-sided tape

8.50" L x 3.80" W x 1.40" D

Unknown/not equipped to weigh

China

1 year

In-Cabinet Light * http://jenesisproducts.com...

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