HuaLe HL803 Piper J3 Cub NC26170 R/C Airplane, retail $43.96 (
Manufactured by HuaLe (URL not known)
Last updated 04-22-14

This isn't a flashlight, household lamp, Christmas light set, or other thing that glows, but since I love things that fly (this is also why I added seperate sections titled "PRODUCTS DESIGNED TO FLY" on my website), and because it has an LED in it to help you see it during those pesky night missions, I figured "what the hey".

This is a medium-sized (13" {30cm} wingspan), lightweight, easy-to-fly remote controlled airplane. It has two motors (not just one like many other R/C aircraft), and is steered by varying the power to each motor, not with an adjustable horizontal stabiliser like single-engine R/C airplanes (and most real airplanes for that matter) have. And it has wheels so it can take off from and land on hard surfaces such as sidewalks and unused streets.

The following is from an email sent by a pilot several years ago; this person knows more about aircraft than I do.

I read a few of your RC aircraft reviews, and you have a pretty serious misconception stated at least twice in discussions of models with 2 motors: In full-sized aircraft or in RC, the horizontal stabilizer is NOT primarily involved in turning the aircraft. It does have a secondary role in turning, which I'll return to later. I have dabbled in RC aircraft a couple of times in my life (I'm essentially your age) and I also have a private pilot's license for full-sized aircraft, although I have not exercised that privilege since moving out of Colorado.

The first part of your misconception seems to be that the horizontal stabilizer controls horizontal movement. Not so.

There are three rotational movements: yaw, pitch and roll. Yaw is the horizontal displacement of the nose and tail about the vertical axis. Pitch is vertical displacement about a horizontal axis roughly aligned with the wing, and roll is vertical displacement of the wing tips about a horizontal axis roughly aligned with the propeller shaft.

The fixed horizontal stabilizers (the little wings usually at the back of the aircraft that stick out horizontally) and movable elevator attached to them (or the "stabilator" or "all-flying stabilizer" in the case of a single piece which moves in its entirety) control PITCH. Although this points the nose up or down, and so generally increases or decreases lift, it really controls airspeed: nose-up leads to slower airspeed and nose-down leads to higher airspeed. The aircraft's "state of trim," which depends more or less on the position of the elevator or stabilator, tends to maintain a constant airspeed, although the varying airflow with changing engine power off the propeller does affect trim speed somewhat. POWER translates into climb or descent: at a constant airspeed, more power means climb and less power means decent, and at a constant power more speed means descent and less speed means climb (until you reach the "on of reverse command," when induced drag increases so much that lower speed means MORE power is needed to maintain level flight, or in the most extreme case: when the wing stalls and a small decrease in speed leads to a loss of lift and RAPID descent). This is a common-sense situation: it takes more power to go uphill at a constant speed than downhill, whether in an airplane, car, bicycle or scooter. The lack of a solid hill doesn't really matter.

So, you probably really meant that the VERTICAL stabilizer (the fin sticking up at the back of the fuselage), which affects yaw, controls turning. This is also wrong, although not completely in the case of some RC aircraft. However, unlike in a surface vehicle, YAW, although it does slew the nose sideways, does not turn the aircraft in the sense of causing it to travel in a circular horizontal course. That is actually the result of ROLL, or banking. Rolling into a modest bank angle causes the lift vector of the wing to point sideways as well as up. The sideways force becomes a centripetal force that moves the aircraft in a horizontal circle. The only centripetal force provided by yaw directly is the vector of the engine's thrust resulting from the yaw angle, and except for military jets, the engine's thrust is WAY less than the force of the wing's lift, and is not enough to turn the airplane through a decent arc. (Other exceptions exist in 3D aerobatics, but I'm ignoring that.)

In fact, in a really well-designed airplane, the rudder is hardly needed to turn, and in RC aircraft, low performance planes with 2 channel control have rudder and elevator, but high performance 2 channel planes have aileron and elevator control. (Assumes either glider or constant-power engine/motor. Read as "3-channel" if you want a throttle control, too.) Low-performance models use yaw-roll coupling to let the rudder CAUSE the roll needed to turn the plane, usually via excess dihedral in the wing, but ideally, roll is controlled directly by ailerons. The problem is that ailerons cause roll by increasing lift on one wing, which raises that wing but also induces drag (lift is not free of cost) and slows it down. The wing going up needs to go faster, not slower, to go around the outside of the turn, so this causes "adverse yaw:" the plane tends to turn the opposite of the intended direction, at least while the roll is occurring (the effect becomes less, but not zero, while maintaining a constant bank angle). The rudder is primarily needed to provide a yaw force to offset this adverse yaw and lead to a "coordinated turn" in which there are no net yaw forces, also described as lack of slip or skid. (Deliberate slip is a another use of the rudder to increase drag on the aircraft, and skid can cause the fun/dangerous spin or snap-roll when combined with stall. Brief rolling motions with proper rudder use leads to a "Dutch roll" in which the heading of the airplane doesn't change while the wings rock back and forth. Look them all up if desired!) Older airplanes had lots of adverse yaw, and needed active footwork on the rudder control pedals to make a nice turn or good Dutch rolls, but more recent and more clever designs can make almost-coordinated turns with your feet off the rudder pedals, at least at average airspeed.

There IS an important roll of the horizontal stabilizer in turning: If you want to turn and simultaneously maintain constant altitude, you need to pull back on the stick (pitch the nose up) to increase lift, since as you roll the lift vector would otherwise be the same force. With part of the force directed horizontally, the aircraft would begin to descend unless lift increased, so total lift must increase by either more power (and more airspeed) or more pitch (and slightly reduced airspeed). The latter is usually chosen, so to turn an airplane properly, you use aileron to roll and simulanteously rudder to control adverse yaw, then as the bank angle increases, back stick to increase lift and maintain constant altitude. It's all much easier when you are in the aircraft and can FEEL the results vs. an RC model or flight simulator program, except the consequences of mistakes are worse.


This toy is remarkably easy to use for an's how to get it flying:

Assemble it (see the included instructional material - you really only need to install the landing gear {wheels}), screw the antenna into the top of the remote control, and as with any rechargeable product, charge the flight battery (see directly below) -- then you can pretend to fly a really large dragonfly (well, that's what the kitty cat would think it is if it were designed to be flown indoors).

1: On the remote control, turn the "on/off" switch to the "on" position.

2: On the bottom of the airplane's fuselage (body) in front of the battery door (very near the charger port), there's a black slide switch. Use a fingernail to slide this switch back toward the tail to the "on" position.

3: Hold the airplane (level, not pointed up or down) in one hand, push the left hand stick on the controller up (toward the front), and firmly but gently toss it straight forward.

Alternately, you may place it onto a hard (paved) surface with a decent length of clear space ahead, and attempt to get it to lift off - this may *OR* may not work however. It works peachy keen with this particular unit; requiring just 25% to 30% throttle to surpass V2 even though the instructional materials indicate that it can be hand-launched only.

4: The motors should immediately throttle up, and the airplane should now begin to climb. Be certain to aim the remote control more or less up at all times; this will help to reach maximum range of the R/C.

For additional instructions & tips on how to fly, please read the instructional material that comes with the product.

Turn the airplane and remote control off when finished using them.
Same switches as before, but slide them in the opposite direction this time.

The battery in the airplane itself is rechargeable; however the batteries in the remote will need to be changed from time to time.

To change the batteries in the remote, turn the unit upside-down, place both thumbs on the clips, and pull down on them, then swing the battery door. The battery door should then come off. Very gently place it on the ground, and kick it into the garden so the hungry, hungry praying mantids will think it's something yummy for their insect tummies and subsequently strike at it...O WAIT!!! YOU'LL NEED THAT!!! So just set it aside instead.

Remove the six used AA cells from the compartment, and dispose of or recycle them as you see fit.

Insert six new AA cells into the compartment, orienting each cell so its flat-end (-) negative faces a spring for it in each chamber.

Finally, place the battery door back on, and snap it into place.
Aren't you glad you didn't kick that battery door into the garden with all those hungry, hungry praying mantids now?

Here is what a praying mantis looks like.
I found this guy on the morning of 09-08-06 clinging to the basket of my scooter.

To charge the flight battery in the airplane itself, plug one end of the included USB charger cord into the female USB receptacle on the right side of the remote control or into a USB receptacle on your desktop or laptop computer, and plug the other end into the receptacle for it on the underside of the airplane's fuselage (body).
If you used the remote for charging, turn it on.

A red LED in the large end of the USB charging cord should now come on. If you're using the Tx to charge the airplane's battery, a yellow-green LED on it will come on instead. When either of these lights turn off, the airplane's battery pack is charged.

Unplug the charger cord from the airplane and from the remote (or your computer), turn the remote off (if you used it for charging), and viola!!! Done!!!.

The flight time per charge is stated at "10 to 12 minutes".

The HuaLe HL803 Piper J3 Cub is meant to be used as a toy in a dry area outdoors, not as a flashlight meant to be carried around, rained on, thrashed, trashed, and abused, so I won't try to drown it in the toilet tank, bash it against a steel rod or against the concrete floor of a patio, let my sister's citty kat , my mother's kitties, or my own little fuzzbomb go to the litterbox on it or let my mother's big dog's ghost lift his leg on it, run over it with a 450lb Celebrity motorised wheelchair, leave it outside in the rain, stomp on it, uranate on it (the Piper J3 Cub is already yellow, so there is no need for such asshaberdashery! ), use a medium claw hammer in order to bash it open to check it for candiosity, fire it from the cannoñata, drop it down the top of Mt. Erupto (I guess I've been watching the TV program "Viva Piñata" too much again - candiosity is usually checked with a laser-type device on a platform with a large readout (located at Piñata Central), with a handheld wand that Langston Lickatoad uses, or with a pack-of-cards-sized device that Fergy Fudgehog uses; the cannoñata (also located at Piñata Central) is only used to shoot piñatas to piñata parties away from picturesque Piñata Island, and Mt. Erupto is an active volcano on Piñata Island), send it to the Daystrom Institute for additional analysis, or perform other indecencies on it that a flashlight might have to have performed on it. So this section of the web page will be ***SIGNIFICANTLY*** more bare than this section of the web page on a page about a flashlight.

There is a propeller on the nose where you'd expect to see one in a real Piper Cub, but it's a dummy! The real motors (yes, I said, "motorS") are located under each wing.

The range of the Tx is stated at 80m (262.47 feet).

Photo of the Tx (remote control) unit.

Photo showing the red LED on the underside of the airplane's fuselage.

Spectrographic analysis
Spectrographic analysis of the red LED in this airplane.

Spectrographic analysis
Spectrographic analysis of the red LED in this airplane; spectrometer's response narrowed to a band between 620nm and 630nm to pinpoint native emission peak wavelength, which is 628.010nm.

The raw spectrometer data (comma-delimited that can be loaded into Excel) is at

USB2000 Spectrometer graciously donated by P.L.


Test unit was purchased on Ebay on 05-07-13 and was received on the afternoon of 05-22-13.

UPDATE: 06-08-13
After attempting to remove the dummy prop & replace it with several map pins (of equal weight), this airplane has ceased to function -- it no longer charges or powers up.
Therefore, the always-dreadful, "Failed or was destroyed during/after testing" will be appended to its listings on this website to indicate that it is broken, man!

UPDATE: 09-22-13
I used my birthday money to purchase another because the original one flew so well; it should arrive by mid-October.

UPDATE: 04-22-14
I purchased another one on 04-20-14 because I just love the living tweedle out of it.

Appears (for the most part anyway) to fly well
Lifts off the ground with only 25% to 30% throttle (instructional material indicates hand-launch only)

That dummy propeller on the nosecone somewhat detracts from its physical appearance, even though the prop exists on a real Piper Cub

Rather sluggish to turn & straighten up again

    PRODUCT TYPE: R/C airplane
    No. OF LAMPS: 1
    SWITCH TYPE: Slide on/off on airplane's undercarriage
    CASE MATERIAL: Compressed foam
    BEZEL: N/A
    BATTERY: Inbuilt rechargeable (voltage & capacity unknown); 6x AA cells in R/C
    CURRENT CONSUMPTION: Unknown/unable to measure
    ACCESSORIES: Two spare propellers (only the starboard prop was found in my package)
    SIZE: 330mm Wingspan x 265mm L x 41mm H (not incl. tail or landing gear)
    WEIGHT: 23.40g (0.850 oz.)
    WARRANTY: Unknown/not stated


    R/C ratingR/C ratingR/C ratingR/C rating

HuaLe HL803 Piper J3 Cub NC26170 R/C Airplane *

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