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SYMA ARMOR F1
R/C SINGLE-ROTOR HELICOPTER w/ Li:POLY BATTERY)

Syma Armor F1 Single-Rotor R/C Helicopter (with Li:Poly battery), retail $48.76
Manufactured by Syma Toys (www.symatoys.com)
Last updated 12-17-14

This isn't a flashlight, household lamp, Christmas light set, or other thing that glows, but it *DOES* have a white LED on the front of its canopy and a blue LED in its Tx (remote), so what the hey.

Please play nice and don't bite my head off to tell me that I forgot some important detail; this is my first experience with a non-coaxial medium-sized or larger heli.

I love things that fly; that's why I took the bate and also why I added a seperate section titled "PRODUCTS DESIGNED TO FLY" on my website a number of years ago. I was also attracted to two things that this heli has that many others don't...

1: It's much larger than any of the "micro" helis I have flown before -- I specifically wanted a larger model.
2: It has a gyro -- that means it's easy to fly even for a "craptastic" pilot like me.

This is a fairly large, lightweight (as a helicopter in a metal & plastic body goes), easy-to-fly 3-channel remote-controlled outdoor (and indoors with a large enough space) helicoper. Its remote uses RF (radio frequency) radiation.

It has a gyroscope (very commonly abbreviated to just "gyro") in it that makes this heli exceptionally stable and lets slow-speed maneuvers and hovering be accomplished much more easily than it would be in R/C helis without a gyro.

Size of product w/hand to show scale

SIZE

This toy (some people might call it something other than a "toy") is remarkably easy to use for a helicopter...here's how to get it off the ground:

As with any rechargeable product, charge it first (see directly below), and then you can pretend to fly a dragonfly (well, that's what the kitty cat would think it was if it were designed to be flown in a small living room).

1: Place the heli on the ground so that the tail faces you. On the left side of the helicopter's body (on the metal part just below and behind the cockpit), there's a fairly sizeable on/off switch.
Slide this switch to the "on" position.
Its white LED "headlight" will come on and begin blinking fairly rapidly.
Move several feet away from the helicopter (at least six feet away).

2: On the remote control, turn the "on/off" switch to the "on" position.

3: The large blue light on the remote will now come on and start blinking. Push the left-hand stick on the remote control forward and then let it go back. This "arms" the helicopter. If you did this correctly, that blue light will go from blinking to steady-on and same with the white LED on the heli.

4: Gently push the left-hand stick on the remote control forward a second time -- but do so more gingerly this time so that the helicopter doesn't just blast away -- it has a good deal of thrust, so the possibility of it getting away in this manner does exist.

5: The helicopter should now lift off the ground. Congratulations, you're now a pilot!!!

Reading this web page (about another R/C helicopter) will give you a good idea of the process of flying it.
For additional instructions & tips on how to fly, please read the instructional material that comes with the product.

Turn the helicopter and remote control off when finished using them.
Same switches as before, but slide them in the opposite direction this time.

The battery in the helicopter itself is rechargeable and is not designed to be changed; however the batteries in the remote will need to be changed from time to time.

To do this, unscrew & remove the phillips screw from the battery door on the underside of the unit, using a small phillips screwdriver (the #0 from my set of jeweller's screwdrivers worked well here). Set the screw aside.

Remove the battery door, carry it to the top of the basement stairs, and kick it down those stairs into the basement crawling with thousands of hungry piss ants that have to piddle -- they'll think it's something yummy to eat and start chewing on it, but quickly find it unpalatable so that they drag it to the queen, who also finds it distasteful so she piddles on it and instructs the worker ants to do the same...O WAIT!!! YOU'LL NEED THAT!!! So just set it aside instead.

Remove the four used AA cells from the compartment, and dispose of or recycle them as you see fit.

Insert four new AA cells into the compartment, orienting each cell so its flat-end (-) negative faces a spring for it in each chamber.

Finally, place the battery door back on, and screw the screw back in.
Aren't you glad you didn't kick that battery door down the stairs to all those hungry, hungry piss ants with full bladders now?

To charge the battery in the helicopter, take the thin cord that's attached to the "wall wart" charger, and plug the small end into the charging box.

Plug the "wall wart" into any standard (in north America anyway) 110 volts to 130 volts AC 60Hz two- or three-slot household receptacle (or "outlet" or even "wall socket" if you prefer).

(Please be certain that the helicopter is turned off at this point).
You'll see a cord with three wires and a white connector on its end. Plug this one into the receptacle for it on the charger.

When the charge cycle is in progress, the yellow-green LED on the charger will turn on and operate steadily (e.g it should not blink). When the charge cycle is complete, this LED should turn off.

You may then safely unplug the helicopter from the charger, and unplug the "wall wart" from the AC receptacle.

Charging is advertised to take between 160 and 170 minutes when the battery in the helicopter is essentially fully discharged (flat).

Fully charging the helicopter's battery should give you 6 to 8 minutes of flying time.

This RC helicopter is meant to be used as a toy in a dry area outdoors (or in a large open room indoors), not as a flashlight meant to be carried around all the time, thrashed, and abused; so I won't throw it against the wall, stomp on it, try to drown it in the {vulgar slang term for a fudge bunny}bowl or the cistern, run over it, swing it against the concrete floor of a patio, bash it open to check it for candiosity, fire it from the cannoņata (I guess I've been watching the TV program "Viva Piņata" too much again

- candiosity is usually checked with a scanner-type device on a platform with a large readout, with a handheld wand that Langston Lickatoad uses, or with a pack-of-cards-sized device that Fergy Fudgehog uses; and the cannoņata is only used to shoot piņatas to piņata parties away from picturesque Piņata Island), send it to the Daystrom Institute for additional analysis, or inflict upon it punishments that I might inflict upon a flashlight.

So this section of the helicopter's web page will be significantly more bare than this section of the web page on a page about a flashlight.

Stated range of the radio in the Tx (R/C hobby talk for "transmitter") is 50 meters (~150 feet); frequency is stated as 2.4GHz.

The unit has a 3-channel remote control; this allows for forward / backward / up / down / left / right movement (movement on all three axes -- X, Y, and Z). You can also "slide" left and right -- something that cannot be done with a coaxial heli. It also has a fully proportional control system; simply meaning that the motor speeds can be varied depending on how far you move the joysticks -- it isn't simply "full power and no power at all" like some other R/C products.

This heli is rather large and powerful; it could be termed a "cat slicer" or even a "cat killer" if it were flown indoors in a pet-owning household, so please excersize at least a modicum of care when flying it in the house.

Photograph of its remote control.

Spectrographic analysis of the white LED on the front of the heli's canopy.

Spectrographic analysis of the white LED on the front of the heli's canopy; spectrometer's response narrowed to a band between 440nm and 450nm to pinpoint native emission peak wavelength, which is 442.700nm.

The raw spectrometer data (tab-delimited that can be loaded into Excel) is at http://ledmuseum.candlepower.us/47/armorw.txt

Spectrographic analysis of the blue LED on the Tx.

Spectrographic analysis of the blue LED on the Tx; spectrometer's response narrowed to a band between 455nm and 465nm to pinpoint emission peak wavelength, which is 460.340nm.

The raw spectrometer data (tab-delimited that can be loaded into Excel) is at http://ledmuseum.candlepower.us/47/armorb.txt

USB2000 Spectrometer graciously donated by P.L.

Maiden flight of my Syma Armor F1 Single-Rotor R/C Helicopter (with Li:Poly battery).

Flight took place near my home on Ellinor Ave. in Shelton WA. USA on the morning of 11-27-14. (or, "2014 27 Nov." or even, "November 27, Twenty Stick-Pile-of-Crossed-Busted-Sticks if you prefer).

Weather conditions at flight time were cloudy, temperature of 55°F (12.8°C), and winds calm.

This is the first time I've flown a single-rotor (non-coaxial) heli (a radio-controlled one anyway), which is why the flight is not all that spectacular.

This video is 151.3368522789 megabytes (151,581,438 bytes) in length; dial-up users please be aware.
It will take no less than seven hundred fifty six minutes to load at 48.0Kbps.
This video is definitely ***NOT*** dial-up friendly!!!

Brief video that shows how the Syma Armor F1 Single-Rotor R/C Helicopter self-terminates when contact is lost with its Tx (remote control).

The first half of the video is with a flybar transplanted from another Syma heli after its own became busted in mid-flight earlier this afternoon (12-15-14); the second half shows the same thing but with no flybar at all.

This video is 2.42082458770 megabytes (2,477,835 bytes) in length; dial-up users please be aware.
It will take no less than twelve minutes to load at 48.0Kbps.

TEST NOTES:
Test unit was purchased on Ebay on 11-23-14 and was received on the afternoon of 11-26-14.

The AC charger is labelled to have an input of 100 volts to 240 volts 50 or 60Hz, an output of DC +10.0 volts, and is able to sink 800mA.

UPDATE: 12-17-14
The flybar (balance bar) busted in mid-flight; I have contacted the seller on Ebay about obtaining a replacement.

In the meantime, I'm going to attempt a low-altitude test flight without one and see if this bird is stable enough to fly -- else I'll have to wait a bit before flights can resume.

Syma

Medium-small sized ("300-size") R/C helicopter

LED

4 (1 blue in R/C, 2 in charger, 1 in helicopter itself)

N/A

Slide switch on/off on both R/C and helicopter

Metal & plastic

N/A

4x AA cells for R/C; 650mAh 7.40V Li:Po (lithium ploymer) battery in helicopter

Unknown/unable to measure

Very light sprinkle-resistance only

ĄĄĄUN FANTASMA ESPANTOSO GRANDE QUE TOMA UNA MIERDA ENORME EN UNA CESTA DE PAPEL USADO PLÁSTICA, NO!!!

Charger, tail rotor blade, phillips screwdriver

450mm L x 155mm H x 75mm W

395g (0.950 lb)

China

Unknown/not stated

Syma Armor F1 Single-Rotor R/C Helicopter (with Li:Poly battery) *

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