CUPREOUS 50mW CR2
GREEN LASER MODULE

Cupreous 50mW CR2 Green Laser Module, retail $26.31 (www.kaidomain.com...)
Manufactured by (unknown)
Last updated 09-27-09




(In reference to the rather fat envelope I received from Hong Kong at 2:45pm PDT on 10-27-07):
{sung like the Foreigner song "Feels Like the First Time"}
This is a green DPSS (diode pumped solid state) laser module that is advertised to output 50mW. It comes in a handsome hinge-lidded presentation case, and includes the CR2 cell it feeds from. It is made primarily from aluminum, covered with what I believe is a black baked enamel finish.

The laser is shorter but fatter (larger around) than a standard pen-style unit that uses AAA cells.


SIZE



Feed the laser module the included battery (see below), and then you'll be ready to rock.

To use the laser module, just aim it at something you wish to point out, and press & release the button on the end of the tailcap. Press & release the button again to turn the laser module back off. This is continuous or hands-free mode.

To use the laser in momentary or signalling mode, press the button more lightly & hold it down for as long as you need the laser spot. Release the button to turn the laser module back off.

The laser module also comes with a hinge-lidded presentation case that has a yellow satan-like lining with cutouts for the module and a battery. You may store the module in this case if desired.



To change the battery in this green laser module, unscrew and remove the tailcap, throw it in the {vulgar term for feces}bowl, yank that silver handle on the cistern down, and flush it away...O WAIT!!! YOU'LL NEED THAT!!! So just set it aside instead.

Tip the used CR2 cell out of the barrel and into your hand, and dispose of or recycle it as you see fit.

Insert a new CR2 cell into the barrel, flat-end (-) negative first. This is the opposite of how batteries are installed in most flashlights, so please pay attention to polarity here.

Screw the tailcap back on, and be done with it.
Aren't you glad you didn't flush away that tailcap now?

Current usage measures 230mA on the included CR2 cell.

Note that the switch assembly may fall out of the tailcap here; should this occur, just slide it back in, orienting it so that the end with the black plastic rod goes in first.



This is a laser module, not a flashlight meant to be thrashed, trashed, and abused, I won't throw it against the wall, stomp on it, try to drown it in the toylet bowl or the cistern, run over it, swing it against the concrete floor of a patio, use a claw hammer in order to bash it open to check it for candiosity, fire it from the cannoņata (I guess I've been watching the TV program "Viva Piņata" too much again - candiosity is usually checked with a scanner-type device on a platform with a large readout, a handheld wand that Langston Lickatoad uses, or a pack-of-cards-sized device that Fergy Fudgehog uses), send it to the Daystrom Institute for additional analysis, or inflict upon it punishments that flashlights may have inflicted upon them. So this section of the laser's web page will seem a bit more bare than this section of the web page on a page about a flashlight.

Green diode lasers are a lot different than those common red lasers you see all the time.

In a 640nm red laser module, there's a red-emitting diode and a lens to collimate (focus) the beam.

In a 532nm green laser (module or larger size), there's a BIG infrared laser diode that generates laser light at 808nm, this is fired into a crystal containing the rare-earth element "neodymium". This crystal takes the 808nm infrared light and lases at 1064nm (yes, deeper in the infrared!). This 1064nm laser light comes out of the NdYV04 (neodymium yttrium vanadium oxide) crystal and is then shot into a second crystal (containing potassium, titanium, & phosphorus, usually called KTP) that doubles the frequency to 532nm - the bright green color you see. This light is then collimated (focused) by a lens and emerges out the laser's "business end". Just before the lens, there's a filter that removes any stray IR (infrared) rays from the pump diode and the neodymium crystal. You don't want that stuff in your green beam, trust me. :-)

This is why green diode lasers are so much more expensive than red ones. Lots of itty bitty parts, and they all need to be aligned by hand. If the polarisation is "off", one or both crystals need to be turned. With red diode lasers, you just slap in the diode and slap a lens in front of it.

VERY IMPORTANT!!! This laser is NOT a toy, and you MUST NOT shine it into your eyes, other people's eyes, pets' eyes, for that matter, the eyes of any person or animal you encounter. Eye damage can occur faster than the blink reflex can protect them, regardless of what species' eyes you irradiate with this laser. So just don't do it.
And for heaven sakes (and for Pete sakes and for your sakes too) do not shine this laser at any vehicle, whether ground-based like a car or truck, or air-based like a helicopter, airplane, or jet. And if you shoot it at a person in the dark and he turns out to be a police officer, he may think he's being targeted, pull his gun, and hose you down with it.
This is a CDRH Class IIIB laser device. Treat it with respect, and it'll treat you with respect.


The front end of the laser easily unscrews to expose the circuit board; this does *NOT* allow access to the laser cavity however.

I tried to cut through the finish to bare Metalgreymon - er - the bare Metalgarurumon - um that's not it either...the bare Metalseadramon...er...uh...wait a sec here...THE BARE METAL (guess I've been watching too much Digimon again! ) with the blade of a folding knife, and was rather easily successful.
This tells me that the finish is powder-coated or baked enamel (paint), rather than anodizing of any pedigree.
Would I really try to chop up a brand spanken new laser I paid perfectly good money for?
You bet your sugar-coated toilet muscle (sweet patootie) I would, if it's in the name of science.

This laser is not water-resistant, so please be extra careful when using it around sinks, tubs, toilets, fishtanks, pet water bowls, or other places where water or water-like liquids might be found. And you'll probably want to cover it up or otherwise get rid of it (such as by putting it in a pocket or bag) if you need to carry it in rainy or snowy weather.



Beam photograph on the test target at 12".
Beam image bloomed *SUBSTANTIALLY* in this photograph.
Measures 31.075mW on a laser power meter designed for that purpose.



Beam photograph on a wall at ~10 feet.
Beam image also bloomed *SUBSTANTIALLY*.

Those rectangular graphic things in the upper left quadrant of this photograph are marquees from:

Atari ''Tempest''
Nintendo ''R-Type''
Super Tiger...er...uh...Konami ''Super Cobra''
Midway ''Omega Race''
Sega ''Star Trek''
Williams ''Joust''
Venture Line ''Looping''
Universal ''Mr. Do!'s Castle''
Jaleco ''Exerion''
Gremlin/Sega ''Astro Blaster''
Gottlieb ''Q*bert''

upright coin-op arcade video games from the 1980s.

That graphic toward the right is:
A "BIG SCARY LASER" poster sent by www.megagreen.co.uk

And that clock to the right of the "Big Scary Laser" poster is an Infinity Optics Clock.




Spectrographic plot
Spectrographic analysis of this laser.
Notice the 808nm NIR line from the pump diode is also *BARELY* visible here.
This tells me that the IR filtering is good, but it's not ***PERFECT***.


Spectrographic plot
Repeat spectrographic analysis of this laser; different spectrometer and software used.



Spectrographic plot
Spectrographic analysis of this laser; spectrometer's response narrowed to a band between 790nm and 820nm to show NIR laser line.
I really had to irradiate the H-E-Double-Bendy-Straws out of the spectrometer to get even this much of a response.


WMP movie (.avi extension) showing this unit irradiating & spinning the vanes of a radiometer.
This clip is approximately 4.05 megabytes (4,123,322 bytes) in length; dial-up users please be aware.
It will take no less than twenty minutes to load at 48.0Kbps.



TEST NOTES:
Test unit was purchased on the Kai Domain website on 10-13-07, and was received at 2:34pm PDT on 10-27-07.


UPDATE: 00-00-00



PROS:
Has a hefty and sturdy feel in the hand.
Warning label appears to be at least reasonably accurate.


CONS:
Not waterproof or submersible - but most modules aren't. Will not figure into my rating.
Uses a battery type that may be locally expensive and/or difficult to locate.
Can't use it in public without a variance.
More delicate than directly-injected diode laser pointers/modules. Again, will not figure into my rating.


    MANUFACTURER: Unknown
    PRODUCT TYPE: DPSS green laser module
    LAMP TYPE: Green DPSS laser
    No. OF LAMPS: 1
    BEAM TYPE: Very narrow; it's a laser, remember? ;-)
    SWITCH TYPE: Pushbutton momentary/on/off on tailcap
    CASE MATERIAL: Aluminum
    BEZEL: Metal; laser aperture recessed into opening at the end
    BATTERY: 1xCR2 cell
    CURRENT CONSUMPTION: 230mA
    WATER RESISTANT: Light splatter-resistance at maximum
    SUBMERSIBLE: No
    SIZE: 3.9" L, 0.75" D
    ACCESSORIES: 1 CR2 cell, hinge-lidded storage case
    WARRANTY: Unknown/not stated

    PRODUCT RATING:

    Star RatingStar Rating





Cupreous 50mW CR2 Green Laser Module * www.kaidomain.com...






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