Pelican M6 6-Watt NUV LED modification, retail $250 ()
Manufactured by (Homemade/modified)
Last updated 03-17-12

This is a modified Pelican M6 flashlight that a Candlepower Forums member (nickname "TheFire" on CPF) built, and offered for sale via the forums.

Picture provided by this light's modifier

Instead of an incandescent bulb, this modification is outfitted with a 6-watt NUV (near-ultraviolet) LED emitter array, somewhat focused by the flashlight's almost-smooth reflector. Although this flashlight doesn't look very bright at visible wavelengths, you should not look into its business-end while it's on, because the NUV radiation peaking at 395nm can hurt your eyes, and if you burn them out, you can't just go to your local convenience store and buy some "Eyeballs-In-A-Can". Well, not yet, anyway.

The flashlight is powered by a pair of CR123A lithium cells, which are easily changed when necessary.


The flashlight is *almost* ready to use as soon as you take it out of the package. Just pop in the two included CR123A cells (see below), and then you'll be ready to rock. :-)

To get a shot of NUV light anytime, just push in and and hold the rubberized tail button. Release it to not get NUV light from the business end.

To operate the light in continuous mode, twist the tailcap clockwise (as if tightening it). The light will come on and stay on at this point. To turn the light off, twist the tailcap counterclockwise (as if loosening it) about 1/2 of a turn, and the light will shut off.

This flashlight has a LOTC (Lock Out TailCap) mode, to prevent the light from turning itself on when it's packed in a box or bag and then subsequently squished. To engage the LOTC, unscrew the tailcap two full turns from the point at which the flashlight operates in continuous on mode. The flashlight will then stay off no matter what squeezes against the switch.
To remove the LOTC function, screw the tailcap back in place clockwise; then back it off a bit when your PM6 springs back to life.

I was advised by the maker of this flashlight that you should only keep it turned on for no more than 3 minutes continuously; and turn it off to allow 5 minutes for cooling after that.
This is very important to know, if you own or use one of these lights.

To change the batteries in your flashlight, unscrew & remove the tailcap, and throw it away...O WAIT, YOU'LL NEED THAT! So just set it aside instead. :-) Dump the dead batteries in your hand, and recycle or dispose of them properly. Insert two new CR123A cells into the barrel, button-end facing the front of the flashlight. Replace the tailcap, backing it off a little when your flashlight springs to life, and be done with it. Aren't you glad you didn't chuck out that tailcap now? ;-)

Measures 1.42 amps (1,420mA) on the batteries that came with it, using the meter's 20A scale to help minimise shunt resistance error.

The above picture shows the LED array (all in a single package) in this flashlight.
I believe there are 50 dice (light-emitting chips) in this LED.

The Pelican M6 6W NUV LED seems to be a tough and durable flashlight, but like *any* user modification, I cannot vouch for its integrity. The head can also get slightly warm in operation, as the LED array uses 6 watts. So don't be surprised when the M6 becomes warm during extended use (see the duty cycle recommendation above) - this is normal and does not in any way indicate a problem with the flashlight.

The sample I'm testing has a pair of O-rings affixed to the barrel near the front; I'm guessing they're spares in case the one under the tailcap or the one under the head becomes broken. Should that happen somewhere in the middle of nowhere, you can just roll the spare you need right to the spot formerly occupied by an O-ring.

The flashlight appears to be waterproof, at least at the head.
I removed the tailcap, relieved the flashlight of its batteries, suctioned the tailcap, and it held a vaccume (vacum, vaccumn, vacume, vaccuummnne, vaccuum, vacumn,vaccuum, vacuum, etc.).

The M6 modification I'm testing comes in a brushed aluminum (silver) finish. I don't yet know what type of anodizing is on this light, though I suspect it's a type II anodized finish.

There is knurling (texturising) on the barrel of this flashlight, so retention (the ability to hold onto it even if your hands are cold, wet, or oily) should not be a problem. The head and tailcap have these "flats" machined into them, which function very weakly as an anti-roll device. The flashlight can still rather easily roll away from you though, so these "flats" are there mainly for cosmetic reasons.

This light also comes with a nylon belt holster; however since I do not use or own pants that require a belt, I cannot test this accessory in the manner for which it was intended. The flashlight fits in it bezel (head) up, and fits in the holster snugly.

This light output from the 6W NUV LED array was strong enough to cause a pinkish glow in a ZnSe (zinc selenide) non-phosphor white LED, when the LED was off. I can do this with an Inova X5T too, but I can hold this flashlight farther away and obtain the same glow.

Temperature measurements were taken on 03-23-04.
Start temperature is 71F; three minutes later it's 116F.
Bezel was removed 2:45 into the test to facilitate measurement. Measured directly at the LED's outer casing, with no bezel or bezel window to interfere with the temperature reading.

More detailed temperature analysis performed on 03-24-04.
I'll run the whole test with the head off - worst-case scenario you know.

131F after 4 minutes...135F after 5 minutes...136F after 6 minutes...138F after 7 minutes; the barrel is getting uncomfortable to hold at 118F...142F after 8 minutes...144F after 9 minutes...147F after 10 minutes...148F after 11 minutes...148F after 12 minutes - the barrel is at 132F...150F after 13 minutes...150F after 14 minutes...151F after 15 minutes; the test was then terminated because the flashlight barrel reached 136F which is rather uncomfortably warm to pick up or hold.

So the LED itself reached a temperature of 151F at the 15 minute mark.

The datasheet for this LED (predominantly metal case) specifies the absolute maximum temperature as 158F (70C).

From the flashlight's maker, comes this snippet:
From that temperature data, I'd say that as long as you're holding it in your hand, with the head on, you should be able to run it for as long as you want (or at least until the flashlight body gets too hot to hold). If you want to be super safe, 15-20 minutes, but I don't really think that's necessary. I'm glad the heatsinking is working so well .

Beam photo at ~12".

The light is not that magenta color you see in the beam photographs;
in reality you'd see a dim, deep royal purple color to the light's beam.

Wavelength is too short for me to measure the intensity of this light or run it through the ProMetric.

Vector 7 NUV on the left, PM6 6W NUV on the right.
On a wall from ~5 feet away.
Note that the Vector 7 has focusing lenses built into it.

Inova X5T NUV on the left, PM 6W NUV on the right.
On a ceiling from ~4 feet away.

Greenish-yellow fluorescence in a "Whoop-@$$" energy drink.
I believe vitamin B2 (riboflavin) is responsible for most of this fluorescence.
In a paper McDonald's cup from ~4" away.

This beverage is made by Jones Sodie Co., and was not used with permission. :-/

Spectrographic analysis of the LED in this light.

Spectrographic analysis
Same as above; newer spectrometer software & settings used.

Spectrographic analysis
Spectrographic analysis of the LED in this light; spectrometer's response narrowed to a band between 370nm and 420nm to pinpoint peak wavelength, which is 399.256nm.

Spectrographic analysis
Spectrographic analysis of the fluorescence of the white part of the eyes of a Squidward Tentacles plush when illuminated with this light.

Spectrographic analysis
Spectrographic analysis of the fluorescence of a uranated* glass marble when irradiated with this light.

*"Uranated" - infused with an anion oxide of uranium, *NOT* tinkled (pissed) on.
Commonly referred to as "Vaseline glass" because it has
a distinct pale yellow-green color when not being irradiated.

Note spelling: "urAnated", not "urEnated","urInated",
"urOnated", "urUnated", or sometimes "urYnated".

USB2000 Spectrometer graciously donated by P.L.

ProMetric analysis
Beam cross-sectional analysis.

Image made using the ProMetric System by Radiant Imaging.

Light was purchased a few days ago, and was received on 03-22-04.

This is a user modification to an existing product, and won't be rated like a commercial flashlight.
This page was just put up, and as of now (03-22-04 8:58pm PST) is still incomplete.

The thread about this light on Candlepower Forums is right here if you're interested.
As of this writing (03-26-04), there are 69 messages, so give it a minute to load, especially if you're on a dial-up.

UPDATE: 07-12-09
Spectrographic analysis
Spectrographic analysis of the fluorescence of the NIA 2009 Commemorative Insulator in uranated* glass when irradiated by this light.

*"Uranated" - infused with a uranium compound (one of the oxides I believe), *NOT* piddled on.
Commonly referred to as "Vaseline glass" because it has
a distinct pale yellow-green color when not being irradiated.



Pelican M6 6-watt NUV LED modification *

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