T-Beam LED Torch, retail 54.00 ($69.16)* (http://tokyotoys.biz...)
Manufactured by (Unknown) for TokyoToys (http://tokyotoys.biz)
Last updated 11-16-06

* IMPORTANT: Pricing is accurate as of 11-16-06. Please visit the Currency Calculator for the latest currency conversion rates from Euros to US dollars.

This is a flashlight (torch) that uses a Luxeon III LED at the bottom of a mirror-smooth reflector. The flashlight comes in an almost all-aluminum body, and can be powered with two rechargeable RCR123A cells or with a pair of disposable CR123A cells.


To use this flashlight, feed it first if necessary (see directly below), and then you can go paint the town red...or in this case, white.

Press the rubberised button on the tailcap firmly until it clicks and then release it to turn the flashlight on.

Do the exact same thing to turn the flashlight off.

There is no momentary or signalling mode available when the flashlight is off, however, you can blink the flashlight while it is on by partially depressing the tailcap button. If you don't mind the backward or reverse feeling of this, you can blink the flashlight this way.

The flashlight comes with a nylon pouch/belt holster. The flashlight fits this holster bezel-up; a flap with velcro on it folds over the top and attaches to the body of the holster with a matching piece of velcro, so the flashlight doesn't just fall out. This holster fits belts up to ~2.75" wide, and can be threaded through the belt or attached with your belt already on, thanks to a snap at the base of the belt loop. I do not own or use pants that require a belt however, so I cannot test this accessory in the manner in which it was intended to be used.

To charge the batteries in your T-Beam, unscrew and remove the tailcap, throw it in the {vulgar term for toilet}, and flush it away...O WAIT, YOU'LL NEED THAT!!! So just set it aside instead.

Tip the discharged batteries out of the barrel and into your hand.

Insert the used batteries into the charger, orienting them so their flat-ends (-) negatives face the (-) sign embossed into the bottom of the chambers in the charging cradle. Plug the charger into a 220 volts AC receptacle.

The LED on the charging cradle should now come on red. When the LED turns green, this indicates the batteries are fully charged. Unplug the wall charger, and remove the batteries from the cradle.

Insert the batteries back in the flashlight barrel, button-end (+) positive going in first. Screw the tailcap back on.
Aren't you glad you didn't flush that tailcap away now?

You can also use disposable CR123A cells; just omit the charging step, and dispose of or recycle the used batteries as you see fit.

Current usage measures 695mA on disposable CR123A cells and 463mA on rechargeable RCR123A cells.

Photograph of the charger, showing the two-pin 220 volts AC plug.

The 110 volts to 220 volts power supply I used to ensure the charger received the 220 volts it expected.

The flashlight appears to be reasonably sturdy. Ordinary flashlight accidents should not be enough to do it in. I administered the smack test on it (I beat the urine out of it {or "the living tweedle"out of it} - ten whacks against the concrete floor of a patio; five whacks against the side of the tailcap and five whacks against the side of the bezel), and found the expected damage There is some minor gouging to the bare Metalgrowlmon - er - the bare Metaltogemon - um that's not it either...the bare Metalbeezelmon...er...uh...wait a sec here...THE BARE METAL (guess I've been watching too much Digimon again! Now I'm just making names up!!! ) on the sides of the tailcap and bezel where it was struck. No optical or electrical malfunctions were detected. I also scraped a spot on the barrel to the bare metal with the blade of a Gerber folding knife; this tells me that the finish is a Type II anodizing - not the HA-III found on some of the high-end flashlights.

When I unscrewed the tailcap, relieved the barrel of its batteries, and then performed that dreadful suction test on it, no leakage was detected. So if it fell into shallow water, just shake it off and keep going. And you need not be concerned about using it in rain or snow. And if it fell next to the mailbox and the dog pissed on it, just take the garden hose to it or douche it off under the faucet...good as new!

Just for good measure, I threw it in the toilet (the tank, not the bowl), left it there for a minute, and pulled it out. When the unit was retrieved from the toilet tank, dried off with some store-brand nasal tissue (functionally identical to Cleanax), and then disassembled for examination, no water was found inside.

I tried to cut through the window (lens), and unfortunately, was successful. That tells me it is made of plastic.
Would I really try to cut up the lens of a brand spanken new flashlight?
You bet your sweet patootie I would, if it's in the name of science.

There is significant battery rattle when the product is shaken. This battery rattle occurs with both disposable CR123A and rechargeable RCR123A cells.

The flashlight can be stood up on its tailcap, to allow you to use the bounced light from the ceiling to illuminate the room.

The bezel (head) unscrews, allowing you to use the flashlight like an electronic "candle"; water-resistance will be compromised if you do this though, so please do not remove the bezel and place it directly under the drip in a leaking tent.

One of the first things I noticed was that the flashlight has a lightly scalloped bezel, so you can tell it's still turned on even if you place it bezel-down on a flat surface like a shelf, dresser, table, or counter.

The light produced is a pure white, with no obvious red, pink, yellow, blue, purple, or "rotten squid urine green" tints to it. Not in the hotspot, not in the corona either.

Beam photograph on the test target at ~12".
Measures 1,570,000mcd (rechargeables) and 1,690,000mcd (disposables) on a Meterman LM631 light meter.

This is a bit queer, because usually the rechargeables give a higher intensity measurement.
I was *CERTAIN* to charge the batteries prior to taking this measurement.

That greenish tinge in the above photograph *DOES NOT* exist in reality.
A more accurate color rendition is shown in the photograph directly below.

Beam photograph on a wall at ~10'.

Those rectangular graphic things near the upper left are marquees from:
Midway ''Omega Race''
Sega ''Star Trek''
Williams ''Joust''
Venture Line ''Looping''
Universal ''Mr. Do!'s Castle''
Jaleco ''Exerion''
Gremlin/Sega ''Astro Blaster''
Atari ''Tempest''
Gottlieb ''Q*bert''

upright coin-op arcade video games from the 1980s.

Spectrographic plot
Spectrometer plot of the LED in this flashlight.
Ocean Optics USB2000 Spectrometer on loan from TWO-CUBED.

Test unit was sent by H.W.of TokyoToys and was received on 11-16-06.

UPDATE: 00-00-00



    PRODUCT TYPE: "Tactical"-style LED flashlight
    LAMP TYPE: White Luxeon III LED
    No. OF LAMPS: 1
    BEAM TYPE: Medium/narrow spot with medium corona
    SWITCH TYPE: Rubberised pushbutton on/off on tailcap
    BEZEL: LED and reflector protected by clear plastic window
    BATTERY: 2xRCR123A rechargeable Li:ION cells
    CURRENT CONSUMPTION: 695mA (primary), 463mA (rechargeable)
    SUBMERSIBLE: Yes, to shallow depths at minimum
    ACCESSORIES: Charger (for 220VAC), 2-RCR123A cells, wrist lanyard, belt holster
    WARRANTY: 1 year


    Star Rating

T-Beam LED Torch * http://tokyotoys.biz...s

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